Galvanic Brass EtchingbrassEtch
OverviewThis is a neat technique to etch brass using electrolysis I originally saw on The Steampunk Workshop. I really liked the notebooks he made there and decided to make one for my wife. This is a much more detailed writeup of how to do the etching based on my experience One thing to note is this is there are much better ways if you want an absolutely perfect etch(Such as using press-n-peel instead of toner or by building a CNC etching machine. For the notebook I wanted antique looking pieces with minor imperfections, so it didn't end up looking machine done. Items Needed
Tools
Safety
Cutting and Toner Transfer
![]() ![]() Making the holder grid comboThis is somewhat dependant on what you have handy. Both the grid and the holder need to be conductive, the trick with the holder though is you only want the plate you attach to it to be charged. I used plastic coated rabbit fencing. I took two large roughly equal sized pieces. One I scraped most of the insulation off and folded it so there was more surface area. The other I scraped off only a select area(To make contact with the sheet) and then electrical taped other exposed parts. I used a wooden stick to hold both of them up over the bucket so I could move them closer or further from each other as needed(I've tried other methods but it's always more painful). One really important thing to note is that none of it touches the bottom of the bucket. A layer of brass dust forms on the bottom and you will end up with a short if they are too low down. I've had this happen, it ends up burning through the bottom of the grid.
![]() ![]() Etching the brass
![]() Spraying and Cleaning
![]() Making the Notebook
![]() Last Edited: 2010-10-25 02:06:41
+ Add a comment 18458eb24dc5a8015d8a63bae1c225292012-02-22 23:14:04.386447 UTC mike said (2010-10-25 02:12:08): got good results i posted on steam punk thanks for help i have helpful pics but dont know how to post if anyone wants them email me at buffinfun@yahoo.com...thanks for help..i used cobination of all ideas Gavin Black said (2010-10-25 02:10:55): Covering shouldn't really matter. I've never noticed any of the plate backs being noticeably etched (But discoloration occurs wherever the wire makes contact). My first couple of tests I held the anode's wires on with electrical tape, and the covered area in back wasn't raised when I was done. Also the current should be taking the path of least resistance, which would be the shortest possible distance (The front face of the anode to the cathode). It may provide a very slight improvement to the process to cover the back, but my guess is it would be almost non-existent. But it definitely shouldn't hurt anything if you do cover the back, and it's always good to experiment :) mike said (2010-10-25 02:10:23): i thought of an idea would covering the back of your- plate/anode be a good idea to concentrate all the power towards the front/or the piece your etching? thanks for responses i havent got much responses elsewhere Gavin Black said (2010-10-25 02:09:47): Anything plastic based should hypothetically work (I've used electrical tape with no issues in the past). So a decal or sticker should be fine (But definitely do a test first). I had not heard of silk screening before, if you do try etching something silk-screened let me know how it goes. mike said (2010-10-25 02:08:59): i was going to have a silk screen design made / then silk screen print the design on the brass...in stead of using the iron on transfer design...also someone could make a decal or sticker of what id like etched i was curious if this would work Gavin Black said (2010-10-25 02:08:30): The problem with an iron-on t-shirt transfer is that they are usually an entire block of stuff that you transfer. So it would kinda work, but just make a big square. If you want something precise then press-n-peel is really your best bet. The screen doesn't matter as long as it is conductive (steel copper, etc). It doesn't even have to be a screen, it could be a conductive plate of metal too. You just want something that is evenly distributed over an area slightly larger than what you are etching. The ink *MUST* be plastic-based (Like toner in a laser printer). Normal ink-jet ink will dissolve. Not sure what you mean by "silk screening", since no fabric is used? mike said (2010-10-25 02:07:56): can this be done with a iron on t-shirt type transfer?
what type of screen is used/what grade? also what type of ink is used when silk screening for brass thanks mike |
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